In just 12 months the all-you-can-eat restaurant
chain Taybarns has taken the catering industry by storm - and there are
plans to open 30 new branches. But does it encourage unhealthy eating?
With
a "34-metre long food counter" Taybarns is all about quantity. It
offers an array of food. Choose from a chip shop, carvery, pizza,
pasta, even what appears to be a new hybrid-cuisine, Texican.
Its menu boasts: "Enjoy as much as you like, as many times as you like. All for one fixed price!"
While
other restaurants are closing at an estimated rate of 100 a month,
Whitbread which owns Taybarns, has recorded a 3% increase in sales in
the last six months to £703.3m.
It is serving almost 10,000 people a week in its most popular
branches and there are plans to expand next year, turning 30 Brewers
Fayre pubs into Taybarns.
"We offer quality family food at a
really good price and it's helped Taybarns succeed where others have
failed," says Taybarns operations director and the man behind the
concept, Simon Ewins.
"We're doing volumes that are eye
watering for the industry. Our Wigan branch, which has been open for a
year, has served more meals than the population of the town - 300,000."
Ewins says the company has, unashamedly, based itself in the working-class heart of Britain.
There are Taybarns branches in Newcastle upon Tyne, South Shields, Barnsley, Newcastle-under-Lyme, Coventry, Swansea and Wigan.

Help yourself
It
is not yet 6pm on a Friday night in the Coventry branch of Taybarns and
already the eaterie is full of people queuing along that famously
lengthy food counter.
Customers pay £5.99 - or £7.99 in the
evenings - at the door. Then, as the sign says, "grab a plate, help
yourself, help yourself again".
"We come here because of the
choice of the food and the price, it's really good value" says one
woman whose plate holds a burger, chips, sausage and a lamb skewer. "We
can all go out as a family. We're all different, but there are no
arguments about I don't like this or I don't like that."
The
union jack bunting strung across the chip shop, the flames leaping up
from the wok and the sweet smell wafting from the dessert counter add
to the buzz of excitement among customers. The treacle tart and
chocolate sponge are going down well.
'Grab a plate, help yourself, help yourself again'
Spicy dishes, like the chilli con carne and tikka masala sauce, are
popular on Friday nights, but on Sundays people go for a traditional
roast dinner.
US concept
Taybarns is modelled on
the American all-you-can-eat chain, Golden Corral, which opened in 1973
and now turns over more than $1bn a year. It claims its focus on
freshness differentiates it from other steakhouses, featuring a large
hot and cold buffet, grill, carving station and bakery.
The
all-you-can-eat concept originated in the US's working areas in the
1930s. Golden Corral has capitalised on that trend, focusing on
small-town America, it now has more than 450 restaurants across 41
states.
But with warnings that the UK is following the US with
rising levels of obesity, isn't this sort of dining experience a cause
for concern?
Mr Ewins is adamant that offering variety, as well
as value, is the key to Taybarns success too. It is not about
encouraging overindulgence he says. It is about offering the
opportunity to experiment with food in a non-risky way.
"People
want to try new things. But if you go out on a Friday night and you try
a new main course in a traditional restaurant and you don't like it,
that's a disaster. At Taybarns you can just try something else or go
back to your favourites."
So it could be that in cash-strapped
times Taybarns offers a safe way to eat out. You know exactly how much
it costs and what you get for the price.
But some believe the all-you-can-eat concept promotes poor dietary
habits. And, that contrary to the suggestion that more choice
encourages experimentation, it actually stifles it.
"The irony
is that if you give people complete and unadulterated choice they eat a
narrower range of food simply because they can - you can eat burgers
every day if you like" says Professor Martin Caraher, professor of food
and health policy at City University London.
He is concerned
about all-you-can-eat restaurants. "It encourages greed. There is a
sense of getting value for your money. And we've moved away from the
notion of stopping when we feel full. People think I'll just have
another bit, I'm not paying for it."
The recorded average
number of platefuls eaten by Taybarns' customers is 3.37. In the
Coventry branch, Heidi, who is celebrating a family birthday is already
on her way to surpassing that.
"When I come here I pig out. I've had two puddings already. I'll be regretting it when I go on the scales next week."
Profit margins
So how, if people are piling up plates several times, does Taybarns make money?
Its
food does not claim to be organic or free-range, but it does emphasise
the freshness of its ingredients. Industry experts argue that it is
down to the high volume of customers. Margins may be low, but the
figures add up because of the footfall.
"It's perfectly feasible to create decent food without spending a fortune," says Paul Wootton, editor of Restaurant magazine.
"At
Taybarns, a large part of its offer focuses on salads, pizza and pasta,
where ingredient costs will be at the lower end of the scale."
Many
operators in the restaurant industry this year have been working to
tighter margins than Taybarns, offering 2-for-1s and 50% off, to get
customers through the doors, he says. They know that low margins are
better than no margins.
"If you're buying spuds and chicken on
an industrial scale you're going to get them cheap," says Richard
Harden, of Hardens restaurant guide.
"Even if people are eating
half a chicken each, which might only cost Taybarns £1 - they might be
producing a whole meal for £2.50 per head."
Credit crunch
Taybarns appears to be going from strength to strength while top-end restaurants suffer.
But,
not everyone is convinced it is around for the long haul. Some argue
that they are akin to fast food outlets. A sector predicted to grow in
the next three-to-five years, but then stabilise.
"My suspicion
is that Taybarns will come and go - that it's a phenomenon related to
the credit crunch. They'll reinvent themselves in three or four years
time as something else," says Mr Caraher.
"The American model
bothers me. We want big portions, rubbish food. What we actually need
is higher quality and people eating less."
source : bbc news
Recent Comments