YOU'D think that a nation's economic collapse might cause a little wobble
in its tourist industry.
Not the mighty Dubai. This is the destination whose dazzling PR machine
convinced the rich and famous that it was not the biggest building site
since the boom years on the Costa Brava, but a glitzy playground.
We told earlier this month how Rangers skipper Barry Ferguson has taken an
early bath on property investments there since the economic collapse.
And he's not the only one. Plenty of hard-working Scots have been tying
granny knots in their intestines, having sunk their life savings into flats
there in the hope of enjoying breaks there until they can retire to its
year-round sunshine.
But it looks very much like business as usual in the Shopping Emirate. Malls
have been heaving with pleasure- and present-seekers in the last few weeks -
some hotels claiming 100 per cent occupancy.
Searches by Brits on hotels.com for Dubai digs have risen by a staggering 570
per cent since Dubai World said it needed to delay repayment of its
£16billion debts.
In the first half of 2009, the average five-star hotel room was £174 per
night.
For January 2010, it will cost on average £144 - but can be as low as £74,
despite a £6.2billion bail-out from neighbour Abu Dhabi.
Maybe it's because Dubai celebrates the festive season in style. The way
things are going, they'll be rolling out Santa and decking the malls with
boughs of holly long after the last council here bans all references to
Christmas.
I bet the PC brigade don't check if the folk they are trying not to offend are
bothered. Coz all the signs are that Muslims in Dubai are cool with it.
Outdoor Christmas trees are green skyscrapers covered in a pattern of baubles
so thoughtfully placed that you suspect the architect had them drawn on the
plans.
Santa sits in malls with queuing kids while the usual compilation CDs jingle
through the muzak system. It's just like home, but more festive. And
sunnier. About 25°C right now.
There's a great deal of chat about how Dubai is a shopping paradise and it's
true that the malls have raised women's favourite pastime above even an art
form, into full-on entertainment, with ski slopes in malls and malls in
hotel resorts.
There are interesting stores that we don't have here, which is always exciting
- but prices are similar.
The currency, the dirham, is pegged to the US dollar, so keep an eye on that
to see how far your holiday pound will go.
Maybe the crunch will drive down more than hotel prices - let's hope so, since
a five-star hotel can rush you a tenner for a plate of chips. Not much is
likely to change about the cost of booze but you have to expect that in a
culture that doesn't down it like we do.

Dubai's shopping Unique Selling Point is the old-fashioned gold souk. Prices
are based on the weight of the gold - and it's all pretty heavy.
At any one point there's 25 tons of gold on sale. Ratners it ain't.
Here, big bling is best. You'd need reinforced lobes with scaffolding on your
shoulders to hang some of these trinkets from your ears.
Necklaces range from beautiful, to hideous, some are encrusted with jewels,
others intricately woven into complex body armour starting under the chin
and draping down to the cleavage. Many are bought as the marriage deal. Sell
that kind of thing if you get divorced and it'd keep you solvent for years.
And that's another bizarre thing... there were gold chainmail vests. How to
wear? And to where? Especially in such a modest culture.
It put me in mind of my daughter when she was five and was given a belly
dancing outfit but insisted on wearing a vest underneath. Some similar
arrangement must surely be required under the modesty rules.
Some bargains can be found in the market alleys and the spice souk which
surrounds it.
Those superfine pashminas that they can pass through a wedding band can be
found for £15-£30.
Depends if you can be bothered haggling. It's so stressful if you really want
something but don't have much dosh. And so tiresome if you do have the cash
but just don't want to be ripped off.
Perfume shops take bargaining to a whole different level. No matter how much
coffee they give you to sip or sniff to clear your nasal passages, your head
spins as they cover you with exotically pungent daubs of rose, musk,
gardenia, jasmine, lotus, sandalwood - you name it, they have the oil.
You can end up with a mix 'n' match selection to play with at home, or get
them to make up a vat of signature scent. They may throw in some pretty
little coloured glass bottles but on no account allow them to add the stuff
that makes perfume vaporise - it makes everything stink like your ancient
Auntie Betty.
What's missing in Dubai is a proper cultural centre. With all those spanking
new skyscrapers, it's a bit soulless. Its "old quarter" around a creek that
worms through the city to the sea is mostly less than 100 years old.
The inlet first brought traders to this virtually empty desert land in the
years BO (Before Oil).
The river is humming with modern and ancient life here - battered wooden
boats zigzag across it against a backdrop of gleaming mirror-fronted
skyscrapers. It's like two slices of time spliced together in Photoshop.
Dusty coffee shops are from a forgotten time. Maybe they'll escape the
crushing jaws of the modern building monster if the economic problems slow
down the march of the architects.
Inside the swish hotels, there is no dust. At all. And because the climate is
humid as well as hot - 120 in summer - everything except the actual outdoors
has superwizzily efficient aircon.
You can even do a desert rollercoaster safari in a 4x4 which is kept cool -
temperature-wise and in every other way. Drivers have to be trained for
months to surf the dunes, swinging heavy vehicles filled with guests off the
ridges to swoop down the sides often at angles that feel more precarious
than 45 degrees. There are very few straight lines on this ride, it's all
about thrashing the engine as it heaves the car up the hill then swinging
the front round at just the right moment to swoosh back down.
With everyone flung over to one side and the sand sinking beneath the tyres,
you're never sure that they won't roll it.
As our grinning driver explained: "If you do that the party's over. That
vehicle is not going to start again so we have to get another out and take
guests home. Besides, they don't really feel like carrying on after that."
You don't say? Apparently it doesn't happen often after they've done the
training and been rigorously tested by cops. He was joking. I think.
After taking sunset snaps, they throw in a bit of belly dancing from some
Russian lass - the locals wouldn't dream of it - but it's a tough act to
follow. Even young men look like they've had enough excitment for one day.
Back in the city, the jaggy-edged skyscrapers doing battle with the cranes and
scaffolding are a stark contrast to the soft sand skyline at sunset. There
is one - count 'em - public beach in Dubai, a thin strip called Jumeirah,
because the rest of the sands are owned by hotels.
And in a superb bit of irony, Jumeirah is right beside Burj Al Arab - the
super-luxury sail- shaped hotel where Tiger Woods was paid millions to smack
a golf ball off the helipad tee. If only they'd known, they could have
supplied an under-appreciated belly dancer.
Frankly, it's unimpressive from the outside. And you'd have to be mad to pay
£30 to see inside. I'd rather be mugged in the street by someone who needs
the cash.
The Palm is the other much-hyped complex. Great from the sky, pointless from
street level. It looks so un-palm like that you're not sure you've arrived.
But other super-hotels deliver as much as they promise - like the £750million
Atlantis, which is reached through a six-lane underwater tunnel and boasts
the Middle East's biggest water park.
But still. Dubai was born on Eastern promise, and it does hold some magic -
not least in the form of Dubailand, the bigger- and-better hotel resort that
includes a Universal Studios theme park amongst other things.
For the sake of those ordinary folk who invested their futures in the place,
it seems like a good time to grab the chance to see it for ourselves.
THE OUTLOOK: Barrhead Travel's Caroline Donaldson says: "Hoteliers are
starting to reduce prices to attract more customers so we see this as a
great opportunity to get premium holidays at reduced prices."
THE DEAL: Five nights B&B at the five-star Meridian Mina Seyahi
Beach Resort, including direct flights from Glasgow in June from £799. Call
0871 423 2439 or see barrheadtravel.co.uk
THE OUTLOOK: Terry Fisher of tour operator netflights.com says: "The UK
market will play a huge role in bringing Dubai through this mini crisis and
we expect to see some great deals."
THE DEAL: Netflights.com has three nights half board at Jumeirah Beach
Hotel from £489, flying with Royal Brunei Airlines from Edinburgh or Glasgow
from May 9 to July 9, 2010. See netflights.com or call 0844 493 4944.
THE OUTLOOK: Sport Abroad spokeswoman Lynsey Devon says: "Over the past
15 years, Dubai has grown from an ancient port to a centre for tourism and
sport that is out of this world. With the opening of the brand new Sports
City in 2009, there are even more fantastic sporting facilities on offer."
THE DEALS: The 15th Dubai World Cup, highlight of a seven-race card with
purses totalling more than £15million, takes place in March 2010 at the
stunning new Medyan Racecourse. Register now to receive your package details
including direct flights from Glasgow with Emirates. Official hospitality
packages to be released in January.
From September to May, the UAE enjoys unlimited sunshine which means
golfers improve their game and their families love it for all the activities
liked dune buggying and balloon safaris. A week of bed and breakfast at the
Metropolitan Deira Hotel and four rounds of golf - two on Wadi by Faldo, one
on Majlis Golf Course, one on Dubai Creek - is from £975. Call 08456 803 086
or see sportabroad.co.uk
By Kay Cox
Source: News of the World
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